Moissanite Shapes and Cuts - A Comprehensive Guide to Choosing the Perfect Stone

May 22, 2024

Introduction to Moissanite

Moissanite, a gemstone composed of silicon carbide, was first discovered in a meteorite in 1893. Today, it’s primarily lab-created due to its rarity, making it a more affordable alternative to diamonds while still maintaining exceptional brilliance and fire. With a refractive index of 2.65, which is higher than diamond’s 2.42, moissanite has greater light-bending capabilities, resulting in extraordinary sparkle and brilliance. This gemstone has gained popularity not only for its stunning appearance but also for its ethical production process and durability, with a hardness rating of 9.25 on the Mohs scale.

Why Choose Moissanite?

There are several compelling reasons to consider moissanite for your jewelry needs:

  • Affordability: Moissanite is significantly more affordable than diamonds of comparable size and quality, making it an excellent choice for those seeking luxury on a budget.

  • Durability: With its high hardness rating, moissanite can withstand daily wear and tear, making it suitable for everyday jewelry pieces.

  • Ethical Production: Lab-created moissanite avoids the ethical concerns sometimes associated with diamond mining, appealing to conscious consumers .

  • Superior Sparkle: Moissanite naturally has more fire and brilliance than diamonds, creating a dazzling display of light that many find more visually striking.

The Four C’s of Moissanite Grading

Similar to diamonds, moissanite is graded based on four key characteristics:

Cut

The cut grade of moissanite significantly affects its appearance by influencing how light passes through the stone and produces sparkle. The cut determines how well the gemstone’s natural beauty is showcased. Grades typically range from “Excellent” to “Poor,” with excellent cuts allowing light to travel most effectively throughout the stone.

Color

The color grade indicates how colorless the stone appears. The highest quality moissanite has a color grade of D to F, which is considered colorless. Lower grades may have a slight yellow or gray tint that can affect the stone’s brilliance.

Clarity

Clarity refers to the presence of internal inclusions or external blemishes. The highest clarity grade is “Flawless” (FL), followed by Very Very Slight (VVS), Very Slight (VS), Slight (SI), and Included (I). For optimal appearance, it’s best to choose moissanite with fewer visible flaws (VVS1-VVS2).

Carat

Carat weight refers to the physical weight of the stone. As with diamonds, larger moissanite stones are typically more valuable, though the other three C’s also significantly impact value.

Popular Moissanite Shapes

Moissanite can be cut into various shapes, each offering unique visual characteristics and appeal. Here’s a comprehensive look at the most popular shapes:

Round Brilliant Cut

The round brilliant cut is the most common and sought-after shape for moissanite. This classic shape features 58 facets arranged in a precise pattern designed to maximize light reflection and brilliance.

  • Description: The round brilliant cut has 58 surfaces divided between its crown, girdle, and pavilion, with a distinctive ratio between 1.00 and 1.02 that creates optimal light reflection.

  • Appeal: This cut is considered the most versatile and timeless option, suitable for all types of jewelry settings, from simple solitaires to elaborate pave settings.

  • Popularity: The round cut accounts for approximately 70% of engagement rings, making it the most popular choice by far.

Oval Cut

The oval cut is similar to the round cut but with an elongated shape, offering a striking balance of brilliance and elegance.

  • Description: The oval cut is an elongated version of the round cut, with rounded ends that create a football-like shape. This cut typically has 56 facets.

  • Appeal: The oval shape can be particularly flattering for those who prefer something a bit different from the traditional round. It has a similar brilliance to the round cut but with a more distinctive profile.

  • Benefits: The elongated shape can create a slimming effect on the hand, making fingers appear longer and more slender.

Princess Cut

The princess cut is a square or rectangular shape with truncated corners, known for its sharp, clean lines and dazzling brilliance.

  • Description: This modern cut features 76-90 facets arranged in a symmetrical pattern, creating a geometric, architectural look.

  • Appeal: The princess cut is a popular choice for those who appreciate a more contemporary aesthetic. Its bold, angular lines make a statement while still maintaining impressive brilliance.

  • Unique Feature: The princess cut can appear larger than other cuts of the same carat weight due to its shape, providing excellent value for the size.

Emerald Cut

Characterized by its step cuts and large, open table, the emerald cut moissanite has a sophisticated and elegant appearance.

  • Description: The emerald cut features a series of parallel facets (steps) that create a distinctive “staircase” effect, with a large flat surface (table) on top.

  • Appeal: This cut creates a sleek, modern look that is both timeless and elegant. It’s particularly well-suited for those who prefer a more understated yet luxurious style.

  • Benefits: The emerald cut showcases the natural clarity of moissanite, as its open table allows viewers to appreciate the stone’s internal purity.

Heart Cut

Symbolizing love and romance, the heart-shaped moissanite is a popular choice for jewelry intended as a token of affection.

  • Description: The heart cut features a distinctive lobed shape with a cleft at the top, resembling a heart symbol.

  • Appeal: This cut is perfect for those seeking a romantic and symbolic piece. Its unique shape makes it instantly recognizable and emotionally meaningful .

  • Versatility: Despite its distinctive shape, heart-cut moissanite can be incorporated into various settings, from classic solitaires to more elaborate designs.

Cushion Cut

The cushion cut combines the best features of round and square cuts, offering a soft, romantic alternative.

  • Description: This cut is square or rectangular with rounded corners, creating a pillow-like shape. It typically has 64-82 facets.

  • Appeal: The cushion cut offers a soft, romantic look with its rounded corners and larger facets that create a beautiful display of light.

  • Unique Feature: One of the benefits of the cushion cut is that it can make the stone appear larger than other cuts of the same carat weight due to its shape .

Marquise Cut

The marquise cut, named after the Marquise de Pompadour, is a football-shaped cut with pointed ends that create an elongated and elegant look.

  • Description: This cut is characterized by its pointed ends and rounded middle, resembling a football or an oval that has been stretched to create more length .

  • Appeal: The marquise cut is dramatic and elegant, offering a unique statement piece that stands out from more traditional shapes.

  • Benefits: Like the oval and cushion cuts, the marquise shape can create a slimming effect on the hand, making fingers appear longer.

Pear Cut

The pear cut combines the best features of round and marquise cuts, creating a teardrop-shaped gemstone that is both unique and elegant.

  • Description: This cut features a point on one end and a rounded edge on the other, resembling a teardrop or drop of water.

  • Appeal: The pear shape is elegant and distinctive, offering a unique alternative to more traditional shapes. It has 58 facets that reflect light brilliantly.

  • Versatility: Pear-cut moissanite can be worn in various ways, from traditional solitaires to more creative settings that enhance its unique shape.

Why the Round Brilliant Cut is Often Considered the Best

The round brilliant cut is widely regarded as the best for moissanite for several compelling reasons:

Maximum Brilliance

The round brilliant cut is specifically designed to maximize light reflection and brilliance. With 58 precisely angled facets, this cut allows nearly all light that enters the gemstone to be reflected back to the viewer’s eye.

  • Symmetry and Proportion: The symmetrical design of the round brilliant cut ensures optimal light distribution throughout the stone. The precise proportions and angles of each facet are calculated to create maximum brilliance.

  • Light Reflection: Round moissanite stones are cut to maximize light reflection, which means you get a lot of sparkle with every movement. This cut has over 50 facets that capture and reflect light in a way that maximizes sparkle.

Enhanced Fire and Sparkle

Moissanite naturally has high fire, and the round brilliant cut enhances this property, making the stone particularly vibrant and eye-catching.

  • Dispersion of Light: The round brilliant cut’s design allows for exceptional dispersion of light, which is responsible for the fire or flashes of color that make moissanite so visually striking.

  • Superior Optical Properties: Moissanite’s exceptional refractive index allows it to reflect more light than diamonds, and the round brilliant cut takes full advantage of this property to create a dazzling display.

Timeless Appeal

The round shape has been a favorite for centuries and remains a classic choice that never goes out of style.

  • Universal Beauty: The round shape is universally appealing and has been prized for generations. Its classic beauty makes it a safe choice for those who want a timeless piece.

  • Enduring Popularity: With around 70% of engagement rings featuring a round center stone, this cut’s enduring popularity speaks to its universal appeal .

Versatility

Round moissanite stones can be set in a variety of jewelry styles, from solitaires to pave settings, making them a versatile addition to any collection.

  • Multiple Setting Options: The round shape works beautifully in virtually any setting, from classic solitaires to elaborate pave or channel settings. This versatility makes it an excellent choice for a wide range of jewelry pieces .

  • Design Flexibility: Because of its classic shape, round moissanite can be incorporated into both traditional and modern designs, allowing for maximum flexibility in creating unique pieces.

Technical Advantages

Beyond aesthetics, the round brilliant cut offers several technical advantages that make it particularly well-suited for moissanite.

  • Optimal Weight Retention: The round brilliant cut is designed to retain as much weight as possible from the original rough crystal, making it an efficient choice in terms of material usage.

  • Less Sensitive to Imperfections: The symmetrical nature of the round brilliant cut can help mask certain inclusions or color tints that might be more noticeable in other cuts.

Evaluating a Moissanite’s Cut

When evaluating a moissanite’s cut, several factors should be considered to determine its quality and brilliance:

Proportions

The proportions of a moissanite stone refer to the relationships between its various parts, including the table size, crown angle, pavilion depth, and girdle thickness. These proportions directly affect how light travels through the stone and the resulting brilliance.

  • Table Size: The table is the large facet on the top of the stone. Its size relative to the overall diameter affects light return and brilliance.

  • Crown and Pavilion Angles: The angles of the crown (upper section) and pavilion (lower section) determine how effectively light is refracted and reflected within the stone.

Symmetry

Symmetry refers to how well the facets are aligned and how consistent the overall shape is. Poor symmetry can result in uneven light distribution and a less visually appealing stone.

  • Facet Alignment: The facets should be properly aligned to ensure even light reflection.

  • Shape Consistency: The stone should maintain its intended shape without any noticeable irregularities.

Polish

The quality of the polish on each facet affects how well light is reflected. A poor polish can create a frosted appearance that diminishes the stone’s brilliance.

  • Surface Finish: The facets should have a smooth, glossy surface that allows for optimal light reflection.

  • Edge Finishing: The edges where facets meet should be sharp and clean, without any nicks or chips.

Fluorescence

Some moissanites may exhibit fluorescence under ultraviolet light, which can affect their appearance in natural lighting conditions. While not directly related to cut quality, fluorescence is an important factor to consider when evaluating a moissanite stone.

Common Cut Grades and What They Mean

Moissanite cut grades typically range from “Excellent” to “Poor,” with each grade indicating the quality of the cut and its impact on the stone’s brilliance and overall appearance.

Excellent

An excellent cut is the highest grade and indicates that the moissanite is cut to ideal proportions and angles for maximum brilliance and light return. These stones are often referred to as having “ideal” cut quality.

Very Good

A very good cut is slightly less optimal than an excellent cut but still provides exceptional brilliance and fire. These stones are cut to proportions that allow for nearly all light to be reflected back to the viewer’s eye.

Good

A good cut is still a quality cut that provides attractive brilliance and fire, though it may not be as efficient at reflecting light as excellent or very good cuts. These stones may have slightly less ideal proportions or angles.

Fair

A fair cut is less optimal and may result in some light leakage or reduced brilliance. These stones may have proportions that are outside the ideal range, leading to a less visually striking appearance.

Poor

A poor cut is significantly suboptimal and may result in noticeable light leakage and reduced brilliance. These stones are typically cut in this way to maximize carat weight rather than optical performance.

Tips for Buying Moissanite Jewelry

When purchasing moissanite jewelry, consider the following tips to ensure you get a beautiful, high-quality piece:

Look for Excellent or Very Good Cut Grades

To maximize brilliance and fire, choose moissanite with an excellent or very good cut grade. These stones will provide the best visual performance and be more resistant to the appearance of inclusions.

Consider Color and Clarity

For the best overall appearance, choose moissanite with D to F color (colorless) and FL to VS1 clarity (flawless to very slightly included). These grades will ensure the stone appears pure and brilliant.

Match the Shape to the Setting

Different shapes work better with different settings. For example, round moissanite looks stunning in solitaire settings, while pear-shaped moissanite might be more eye-catching in a prong setting.

Consider Hand Proportion

The size and shape of the wearer’s hand should be considered when selecting moissanite jewelry. Smaller hands may look better with smaller or more delicate settings, while larger hands can handle bolder designs.

Check for Certification

Reputable sellers provide certificates from recognized gemological laboratories that detail the stone’s quality, including cut, color, clarity, and carat weight. These certificates help ensure you’re getting what you pay for.

Understand Maintenance Requirements

Different shapes may have different maintenance requirements. For example, pointed cuts like marquise or pear may require more care to prevent chips at the tips.

Conclusion

Moissanite shapes and cuts offer a wide range of options to suit every taste and preference. While the round brilliant cut is often considered the best due to its maximum brilliance, fire, timeless appeal, and versatility, other shapes like oval, princess, emerald, heart, cushion, marquise, and pear each offer unique visual characteristics that may appeal to different individuals.

When selecting moissanite, it’s important to consider not only the shape but also the cut quality, color, clarity, and carat weight. A well-cut stone with excellent proportions, symmetry, and polish will maximize the natural beauty of the moissanite, providing a stunning piece of jewelry that can be treasured for years to come.

Ultimately, the “best” moissanite shape and cut is the one that resonates most with the wearer’s personal style and preferences. Whether you choose the classic round brilliant cut or one of the more unique shapes like heart or marquise, moissanite’s exceptional brilliance and fire make it a beautiful and affordable choice for any jewelry enthusiast.